It’s an uncrowded weekday morning on Worthing seafront. The solitary canine walker simply makes the seaside appear even emptier.I’m consuming hazelnut gelato, searching throughout sun-warmed pebbles and rippling blue sea in direction of the renovated art-deco pier, and attempting to work out why everybody I discussed this journey to had mentioned “Worthing!?” in Woman Bracknell-esque tones. True, the one individual I’ve recognized who lived right here was my husband’s 102-year-old aunt, however she all the time appeared good enjoyable.Worthing Commentary Wheel. {Photograph}: Bjanka Kadic/AlamyArriving by practice this heat morning, I received straight within the sea. Over three days, I study to time my swims for when the extensive strip of ribbed sand will likely be underfoot, between the shingle financial institution on the prime of the seaside and the weed-slimy ebb-tide rocks. The water feels fantastic. The pedestrianised stretch of promenade past the pier is remodeled by the absence of site visitors. There are dozens of alfresco food-and-drink choices: garlicky tapas on the seaside on the Coast cafe, catch of the day (equivalent to regionally caught turbot with chorizo and butter beans) within the gazebo exterior CrabShack, or recent mint and watermelon juice from the Son of a Peach snack bar.Worthing pier was UK pier of the yr in 2019 and has vibrant stained-glass panels. The Pavilion at one finish is internet hosting out of doors theatre and circus this summer time. I miss the close by free museum, which now opens solely twice every week, however stays up late on Thursdays to show Jacobean embroidery, pre-Raphaelite oil work, flints from neolithic mines and fifth-century glass.Gin van on Worthing seafront. {Photograph}: Phoebe TaplinOpposite my resort, there’s a blue van serving regionally distilled G&Ts and the elegant Worthing Commentary Wheel (£6) has views from the highest throughout the South Downs. New out of doors beachfront exhibitions characteristic fowl work, photographs of wintry wild swimmers, and black-and-white photographs of native lockdown heroes. Close by are among the city’s rentable orange Donkey Bikes (from £1.25 for half-hour) and there are seven degree, downloadable cycle routes, heading for Brighton, Shoreham or Bramber Fort. After months at dwelling, it feels idyllic.Later, I go to one in all Worthing’s quirkier sights: a kitschy, two-thirds duplicate of the Sistine chapel ceiling, painted by a neighborhood designer after his pilgrimage to Rome three a long time in the past. The 700 coastliner bus goes there from the seafront each 10 minutes. I’ve a PlusBus ticket, which provides a day’s limitless bus journey within the Worthing space on to my practice ticket (£2.90/£4.40 with/with out railcard). On subsequent days, I purchase a discovery ticket on the bus for freedom to roam (£9) or a neighborhood dayrider (£5.90 with the app. Accomplished in 1968, the Church of the English Martyrs (open weekdays, free), close to Jupp’s Lane bus cease, seems to be a bit like a main faculty. Inside, although, the curved ceiling has been frescoed and the stained-glass home windows, incorporating glass from a neighborhood convent church, glow within the afternoon solar.Copy of the Sistine Chapel ceiling on the Church of the English Martyrs in Goring-by-Sea. {Photograph}: Stephen Whiting/AlamyFrom Goring-by-Sea station not far away (it’s also possible to get right here by practice), it’s a mile to Highdown Gardens (free). Not an incredible stroll, with a quarter-mile alongside the pavement of the A259 and the identical once more up a slender lane made steeper by the afternoon warmth, however the little backyard on the prime is value it. A century-old experiment in planting on the chalky downs has turn into a aromatic oasis of musk roses and mock orange blossom. Its grassy paths wind previous ferns and irises, and thru clouds of lilacs and delphiniums.On the flint-walled Highdown resort subsequent door to the backyard (doubles from £90 room-only), there are tables on the lavender-bordered terrace and beneficiant starters (creamy salmon tortellini, £7.95; puff pastry, asparagus and pickled mushrooms, £7.50), which I eat with sides (from £3.50) and a pint or two of Sussex IPA (£4.40), brewed 10 miles away within the Arundel brewery. The stroll again down appears a lot shorter.Flowering timber at Highdown Gardens, close to Goring-by-Sea station. {Photograph}: Steve Speller/AlamyThe Highdown’s rooms have been just lately refurbished, however I’m staying within the seafront Travelodge (doubles from £29). It faces throughout busy Marine Parade in direction of the offshore windfarm. It’s noisy, however truly has the most effective sea views I’ve ever had. There are fancier lodges in Worthing, such because the creeper-covered Chatsworth on leafy Steyne Gardens (doubles from £88), however few cheaper ones.Subsequent day I journey the leisurely coastal buses to Eastbourne for top-deck views and a very good John Nash exhibition on the Towner gallery (£11). On my final day, I hop on bus 5 to the Thomas a Becket pub close to the top of the Excessive Road in Tarring, one in all Worthing’s oldest areas. The churchyard spherical Tarring’s wonky-spired Saint Andrew’s smells of reduce grass, there are hollyhocks exterior the cobbled cottages, and I cease off on the Outdated Bake Home for a pot of leaf tea and a few ginger cake (£4.60).A wild pony grazing on Cissbury Ring. {Photograph}: Set off Picture/AlamyBack on the pub, bus 1 takes me 5 minutes north to Could Tree Avenue on the sting of the South Downs nationwide park. Half an hour’s light climb up a barely overgrown bridleway results in Cissbury Ring, the most important hillfort in Sussex (free). There are wild ponies grazing close to the timber, downland flowers underfoot and buzzards coasting overhead.From the far finish of the fort, there’s a transparent view of the distant Seven Sisters close to Eastbourne. It’s one other superb night and, with no parked automotive to get again to, I take an extended route again to Worthing, alongside a chalky monitor close to a valley referred to as Deep Backside. Forward, I can see the large wheel once more, the crooked spire of Tarring church and, past them, the soul-balm blue of the ocean. Surrounded by skylarks and wild roses, I stroll down in direction of the station. Worthing is lower than 90 minutes by practice from London Victoria (advance tickets from £5 every means) or Southampton (returns from £28), southernrailway.com