Wander the previous metropolis
I really like the maze of Moorish-feeling little streets within the historic district between Plaça de Cort and the seafront. In case you simply wander in the direction of La Seu, the cathedral, you all the time come throughout one thing stunning. A whole lot of the previous mansions have been accomplished up and at the moment are accommodations, cafes and eating places, which is nice to see. You solely must stroll for 10 minutes or so to see all kinds of architectural kinds and also you get a way of the historical past of Palma going again over 1,000 years. You emerge from this labyrinth of lanes and out of the blue the bay opens up earlier than you. I nonetheless discover it magical.
Backstreet comes good

Carrer de la Missió was a fairly dodgy little backstreet once I opened the restaurant there a decade in the past – it was not the form of space the well-heeled residents of Palma would go to for dinner. It has regularly improved over time, and now all kinds of galleries and boutiques are opening. There’s a beautiful bookshop simply across the nook on Carrer Arabí, La Biblioteca de Babel (pictured), which has a restaurant with tables on a terrace exterior. We’re actually fortunate to have the tiny Rosevelvet Bakery (15 Carrer de la Missió) proper by the restaurant. I’ve my breakfast there earlier than beginning work. It’s run by a beautiful couple who bake great desserts and pastries, and make actually good espresso – the scent wafting down the road is irresistible.
Vigorous lane

{Photograph}: Alamy
Carrer de Sant Feliu leads off Passeig des Born – the brief, tree-lined promenade that has been on the coronary heart of metropolis life for greater than a century – and is lined with galleries, little outlets and bars. Rialto Dwelling (no 3, pictured) occupies a sublime previous palace and is a treasure trove of books, garments and delightful issues for the house – and it has a beautiful cafe, too. A pal took me lately to a bit place known as 13% (no 13a), which I will need to have walked previous a great deal of occasions. It’s nothing fancy to take a look at, however does nice tapas and a tremendous vary of surprising wines at good costs. You simply sit down and so they discuss you thru what they’ve received that day and counsel wines you would possibly discover attention-grabbing.
Waterfront biking

{Photograph}: Peter Forsberg/Alamy
You’ll be able to cycle for miles alongside the coast. The Paseo Marítimo, the promenade that runs proper across the Bay of Palma, has bike lanes so it’s actually protected and simple, with great views of town and the golden-stone Gothic cathedral in addition to the ocean. I cease off in Portixol, a brief method east, the place there’s a marina with bars and cafes with enticing terraces. For lunch, I like Sa Roqueta and normally order one of many wealthy rice dishes, similar to fideuá mulata (seafood and squid paella), or an entire fish. It’s not low cost (two programs €50) however the high quality is superb. There are a great deal of locations to rent bikes, similar to Palma on Bike (from €14 a day).
Market forces

{Photograph}: Alamy
To get an thought of how good the meals is in Mallorca, wander round Palma’s superb market, the Mercat de L’Olivar, to see the fantastic stalls piled with fabulous contemporary produce from the island and from mainland Spain. The tomatoes are sensational. One of the best factor is which you can purchase some prawns or a little bit of fish, and they’re going to cook dinner it in your lunch in one of many bars upstairs. It’s additionally an excellent place to get some Mallorcan charcuterie and wine to take residence, or some flavoured salt from Es Trenc down on the south coast. • 7am-2.30pm Mon-Thurs, some stalls till 8pm Fri, 3pm Sat, mercatolivar.com,
Peruse a Picasso

{Photograph}: Alamy
Es Baluard is Palma’s modern artwork museum and is value a glance because it all the time has a couple of attention-grabbing momentary exhibitions. It’s a implausible house in a revamped 16th-century fortress that was initially a part of the city partitions. The everlasting assortment has works from the tip of the 19th century till the current day, with work and sculptures by Picasso, Miró and Barceló.• €6, Plaça Porta de Santa Catalina 10, esbaluard.org, closed Monday
Lunch at Vida Meva

One among my former cooks, Toni Martorell, is now operating the good Vida Meva restaurant together with his spouse. It’s astoundingly good worth. He solely opens for lunch and solely Monday to Friday – you might want to ebook – and does a set three-course menu for €13.90, or a fast employees’ lunch for €11.90. It’s close to the parliament constructing and so they get a whole lot of attorneys in too. The dishes change each week, however a few favourites are all the time accessible, similar to his well-known roast rooster.• Carrer del Socors 23, on Fb
Buzzy tapas

I like conventional however barely fashionable tapas bars, the place you possibly can have a chew to eat and a glass of wine on the counter if you happen to don’t need to sit at a desk and make a night of it. Vermutería La Rosa, south of La Rambla, is all the time packed and has a buzz about it. The ambiance is an enormous a part of the expertise, though every part is basically tasty right here, similar to octopus (€15.90) and made-to-order tortilla (€7.60). Order a vermouth when you are deciding.• Carrer de la Rosa 5, on Fb
Michelin-starred menu

{Photograph}: Alamy
Adrián Quetglas now has a Michelin star at his restaurant Quetglas by the river. However it’s actually good worth for cash (set menus from €33 function, say, smoked avocado with shrimp mousse and spicy coconut, and salmon with beetroot tartare). He’s received a terrific wine cellar which you might be welcome to take a look at. I wish to drop by for a glass of wine on the bar as he’s all the time received one thing attention-grabbing to strive, with a easy tapa similar to an outstanding piece of cheese or ibérico ham. • Paseo de Mallorca 20, adrianquetglas.es
Rooftop cocktails

The view from Hostal Cuba Sky Bar
Palma has some spectacular rooftop bars for earlier than or after dinner. My favorite is the Sky Bar at Hostal Cuba on the sting of the modern Santa Catalina neighbourhood by the port. You’ll be able to loosen up and gaze on the Mediterranean and the skyline of the previous city with a mojito or two (€14). There’s a rooftop pool bar on the Saratoga Lodge, which can be residence to the Blue Jazz Membership. I usually go there at weekends to listen to some stay music: it has a fantastic laid-back vibe.
Getting thereThere are plenty of flights to Palma from UK airports, with airways together with BA, easyJet and Ryanair. Non-fly choices embody the prepare to Barcelona, then the ferry to Palma; full particulars at seat61.com.
StayThe Marc Fosh restaurant is within the refectory of a 17th-century convent, which is now Lodge Convent del la Missió (doubles from €180 room-only). For a less expensive keep, former textile manufacturing unit Fil Suites (doubles from €104 room-only) within the Sa Gerreria neighbourhood has trendy rooms and flats.
When to goLate spring is a good time to go to Palma – much less crowded and cooler than summer time.
Marc Fosh is chef at Michelin-starred Marc Fosh restaurant. Interview by Annie Bennett
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