[Photographs: Vicky Wasik]

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Sandwiches
Ideas and tips for making the perfect sandwiches at dwelling.
Po’ boys are a New Orleans specialty that bear a passing resemblance to submarine (or hoagie in the event you’re from Pennsylvania) sandwiches you will discover on the East Coast. The generally accepted origin story (which does not at all times translate to finish historic accuracy) of the po’ boy goes like this: In 1929, New Orleans streetcar staff went on strike to protest the formation of a company-sponsored union. Brothers Bennie and Clovis Martin, who ran the Martin Brothers Espresso Stand and Restaurant, started handing out free sandwiches to the putting “poor boy” staff. This gesture of sandwich solidarity proved to be business-savvy; even when the Martin Brothers started promoting po’ boys for revenue, their easy composition made them an inexpensive eating choice throughout the Nice Melancholy.
I am Only a Po’ Boy, Everyone Loves Me
Served on rectangular loaves of French bread which have a shattery crust and a young, ethereal inside, po’ boys are generally crammed with gravy-drenched roast beef or fried seafood. As with many different iconic regional sandwiches, like Philadelphia’s roast pork or Puebla’s cemita, any aficionado will let you know {that a} correct po’ boy is all in regards to the bread, which is nearer to Vietnamese-style banh mi bread than a sub roll. Sadly, each Vietnamese baguettes and New Orleans–type French loaves are fairly onerous to return by, so most of us need to make do. I had the perfect success mimicking po’ boy bread by flippantly toasting sub rolls to crisp up their tender crust, after which scooping out an excellent portion of their dense and doughy inside.
With the bread squared away, it is time to speak fillings. Together with roast beef, fried seafood is the commonest merchandise to stuff in a po’ boy. Shrimp, oysters, and fish are all well-liked choices which are coated in a Creole-spiced flour and cornmeal dredge, after which deep-fried till golden brown. They then get piled excessive into rolls, and “dressed” with mayonnaise, shredded lettuce, sliced tomatoes, and pickles. It is a messy, scrumptious sandwich that mixes the seafood simplicity of a New England–type fried clam roll, the bread of a banh mi, and the condiments of an awesome deli sandwich. This is find out how to make them.
Make Fried Seafood Po’ Boys
Costume for Success
Each time I am making sandwiches with a bunch of toppings, I wish to get the garnish work out of the best way at the start. Sandwich development is all about assembly-line effectivity, and having your mise en place is important for this. That is particularly necessary for sandwiches with sizzling, fried fillings; you do not need completely crispy shrimp to show to a chilly, soggy mess whilst you’re slicing tomatoes and shredding lettuce. Get these issues completed early, and set them apart. I wish to refrigerate lettuce to maintain it crisp, whereas leaving sliced tomatoes out at room temperature.
I then make a spicy mayonnaise-based sauce that I am required by legislation to name a rémoulade, despite the fact that it’s lacking traditional French rémoulade components (capers and anchovies). Actual speak: You do not have to observe a rémoulade recipe precisely to finish up with a scrumptious sandwich unfold. Mix fatty mayonnaise with spicy (sizzling sauce, cayenne, garlic, mustard, ready horseradish), briny (minced pickle), savory (Worcestershire sauce), and acidic (lemon juice) components, and I promise it can style good.
Dredging Work
A correct coating is crucial for fried seafood. It must be mild and crisp, and it should not slough off while you chew into it. For seafood po’ boys, the coating is a dredge made with flour and cornmeal that is spiced with Creole seasoning.
I arrange a standard dredging station with two shallow baking dishes for dry and moist components. For the moist combination, I whisk collectively eggs with a small quantity of the dry dredge to assist create a good coating that will not slide off.
Begin by tossing your seafood of selection within the dredge to flippantly coat it with the flour combination. Dip it within the egg wash, after which dredge it another time to completely coat.
For shrimp and fish, I gently press the dredge onto them to verify they’re evenly coated, switch them to a wire rack, after which refrigerate for 15 minutes earlier than frying. This time permits the starches within the dredge to hydrate, which ends up in higher coating adhesion.
Oysters are much more delicate, so urgent the dredge onto them shouldn’t be a good suggestion. Comply with the identical dry-wet-dry process for dredging them, however simply take a way more light method. I like so as to add among the oyster liquor to the egg combination when dipping them. For the ultimate coating, you’ll be able to flippantly toss them within the dredge after which go on to frying. Oysters are extra moist than shrimp and fish, so putting them on a wire rack earlier than frying is a no-go—the coating will simply stick with the rack and you will want to re-dredge them.
Craving to Fry, However I Ain’t Received Wings
I rigorously fry the seafood at 375°F (190°C), working in batches in order to not overcrowd the pot and drop the temperature of the oil too low. Be certain to control your meals whereas it fries; seafood can rapidly develop into overcooked, and also you wish to get it out of the oil as quickly because the dredge is browned.
As soon as the coating is golden brown, I switch the seafood to a clear wire rack and instantly season it with salt. I want to relaxation fried meals on a rack as an alternative of paper towels, in order that they do not sit in oil. You’ll be able to at all times dab them on paper towels proper earlier than serving.
It is now time to construct your po’ boys. Slather the bread with rémoulade, pile on the lettuce, tomato, and pickles, after which prime them off along with your completely fried seafood. Dig in and get messy.

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