He ate all of the rice. He threw rocks on the monkeys. He lied concerning the bathrooms and proved pathologically incapable of strolling down a path with out veering off on some wild journey. He sank the raft and overtly inspired onerous ingesting and ribaldry, particularly among the many previous village women. Sure, Maila Gurung was undoubtedly one of many most interesting journey companions I’ve ever had the privilege to accompany.
Nepal map
He was not even supposed to come back with us. We had began from Pokhara in a 4×4, simply myself, information Jagan, Tikka the porter and Chierring, a 19-year-old Sherpa lad from Kathmandu who had by no means been to the mountains. Pokhara was quiet, the merchants desirous to cut price. You can purchase all of the trekking tools you’d ever want, and at vastly cheaper costs than in Europe. “The manufacturers are largely faux,” mentioned Jagan, “however the high quality is ok – besides for top altitudes.”
The concept was to keep away from the standard climbing routes, these well-worn furrows that result in Everest Base Camp or across the Annapurna circuit. Jagan knew all of them effectively: he’d been Everest base camp supervisor and reached the summit twice. Annapurna was his dwelling patch. “There’s nothing genuine or conventional left on these routes,” he advised me. “It’s all for vacationers. We’re going to see actual Nepal; solely a few foreigners have been on this route.”

Maila on a verandah in Sikles
We have been dropped off on the boulder-strewn banks of the River Mardi, a deeply scoured Himalayan torrent whose waters find yourself within the Ganges. Our aim was its supply, a hidden glacier proper beneath the Annapurna massif, a six-day trek there and again. Not that we might see a lot of the nation: clouds of imminent monsoon rain have been gathering over jungle-clad ridges, all of which needed to be crossed. Jagan reminisced about his season as Everest base camp supervisor. “When Miss India arrived, she introduced a hairdryer. Many of the foreigners insist on scorching showers, however base camp is on a glacier… each bathe helps soften it.”

A view of the Annapurna massif from the River Mardi
“What do they eat?”
“The locals too?”
He grinned. “No method. We eat dal bhat: breakfast, lunch, dinner – at all times the identical.”
Lentils and rice, the Nepali staple weight-reduction plan.
“What is going to we eat on this journey?”
“Dal bhat.”
That suited me. I didn’t need pizza, hairdryers and scorching showers. And so right here I used to be, trudging up 2,000 metres of rice terraces the place villagers have been simply starting to plant their crops: rice and lentils, in fact.

Distilling the pa in Sikles
Ultimately we merged right into a stream of college college students heading dwelling and entered the village of Sikles. After 5 hours of ascent, even on a well-made path, I used to be feeling a bit light-headed and questioning if I’d been hasty in judgment, notably on the pizza.
The village was paved with big stone slabs. Lengthy flights of steps wriggled up by layers of terraces, the place stone homes peeped out by tiny, glassless home windows on the magnificent panorama. Reverse a small store promoting necessities was our guesthouse, one other stone home surrounded by a flower-decked terrace. And popping out to fulfill us was the smiling proprietor: Maila.
Inside a couple of minutes he satisfied Chierring that the one rest room was excessive up the mountain, throughout three rivers, and challenged everybody to a dal bhat consuming competitors. First, nevertheless, he wished to indicate us his village. There have been youngsters chasing chickens, previous women weaving baggage from nettle fibres, and aged males plaiting flooring mats. This was a spot of solely younger or previous: lots of working age spend years away, returning dwelling not often. Maila, nevertheless, was uncommon: he hated cities, beloved his village and refused to go away.

Maila on a brand new stretch of footpath that he helped construct
“Have you ever ever tried pa, our home-made whisky?” he requested, main us inside one of many homes. We have been adopted by all of the previous women, who had stopped weaving on the point out of the phrase pa. The girl of the home was sitting by a hearth in the primary room, tending a steaming pot.
I used to be handed a glass and sipped warily, not like Maila, who wolfed down a glass and advised a grimy joke. The previous women started guffawing. A while later, we staggered again to the guesthouse for the dal bhat consuming contest. Chierring had accepted the problem. From the kitchen emerged two trays, every groaning beneath a mountain of rice. A gong sounded and Maila’s big paw swept a shovelful of rice and dal into his mouth, adopted quickly by one other. Chierring wailed, “Oh, I’ll lose!” And he did.
Subsequent day, inside a mile of the village, we rounded a nook and there, floating above us like an attractive silver cloud, was Annapurna. Between us and the mountain have been a stack of jungle ridges. The trail climbed up flights of fantastically minimize steps, then swooped all the way down to lengthy suspension bridges. A monkey whooped. Maila threw a rock. “I do know that monkey,” he grinned. “He tried to chunk me once I was constructing this path.”

Jagan steers a pack raft on the glacier lake
Regardless of his animosity to that individual creature, Maila proved to be an unbelievable spotter of wildlife, particularly birds, of which there have been many, together with dozens of minivets, flying in stunning streaks of scarlet and yellow by the timber.
“Monsoon is an effective time,” he grinned, flicking away a leech. I, too, might see the benefits: the jungle was decked in orchids, the waterfalls and rivers impressively highly effective. Usually our ft have been invisible beneath the thick vegetation that lined the trail. By late afternoon Annapurna was solely sometimes seen by torn black veils of cloud. We crossed a last bridge and arrived at our dwelling for the subsequent two nights, the deserted village of Hugu.
“Our conventional dwelling,” mentioned Maila, shortly getting a hearth going beneath a thatched shelter. “We moved to Sikles once I was a toddler.”

A lady makes use of a brow strap to hold animal fodder
In most circumstances a downpour beneath leaky thatch is perhaps dispiriting. Not in Nepal. With a great fireplace going, a kettle boiling and the pa prepared, tales started to stream. Jagan advised how he began as a porter aged 14, heaving a great deal of as much as 60kg, a observe now outlawed.
That evening I lay in my sleeping bag, musing on why this expertise appeared so genuine. My conclusion was that we vacationers have been in the identical boat because the Nepalese, sharing the identical meals and sleeping in the identical locations. We have been comrades. I used to be carrying a number of the meals and my very own equipment.
Subsequent morning we left at daybreak for an extended, magical day within the shadow of Annapurna, bashing by jungle and clambering over rocks. At midday we reached the glacial lake and launched a one-person pack raft that Jagan was decided to check. I managed to paddle out to an iceberg and stand on it. Maila, nevertheless, heavy with dal bhat and merriment, promptly sank. We lit a hearth and dried him out.

Jagan greets a villager in Sikles
That evening, again at our camp, some honey hunters arrived and settled down across the fireplace with us. Their chief, Meja, refused a tot of pa. “I by no means drink,” he mentioned. “Not after the leopard.”
Two years earlier than, he mentioned, he had left his spouse alone on this similar hut with a flock of sheep and gone all the way down to Sikles, the place he had drunk pa and didn’t return for 3 nights. In the meantime, his spouse woke to seek out the hut surrounded by prowling leopards. For the subsequent 72 hours they ate sheep and terrified the poor lady out of her wits. “I swore by no means to drink once more.”
Extra tales adopted in an extended, convivial night. I had reached the actual Nepal, I made a decision, and made lifelong pals.

Sikles is constructed on a sequence of terraces
That evening I woke at nighttime. Everybody was sleeping and the hearth was out. A shadow of some creature darted away – not a leopard, however a jungle cat. I stepped exterior warily. Far above, the summit of Annapurna appeared to have erupted, a plume of icy sparks taking pictures out throughout the heavens. It took me a second to grasp it was the Milky Approach.
4 days later, again in Pokhara, all of us went for dinner. Everybody else had dal bhat, however I ordered pizza, seduced by the scent of cooking cheese. When it got here, nevertheless, I immediately regretted my alternative. Dal bhat was what I actually wished.• The journey was offered by A lot Higher Adventures, whose six-day hike to the hidden glacier prices from £350, together with all lodging, meals on the trek and guides. Flights from Heathrow to Kathmandu have been offered by Kayak, which has returns from about £380