Alexandre Mazzia’s AM
Alexandre is a modernist chef who I like quite a bit, and his restaurant is price a gourmand splash out, particularly at lunchtime (noon tasting menus from €39-92). He opened AM 4 years in the past and was awarded a Michelin star in 2016. A meal right here may be very a lot a shock: no written menu, simply tasting choices that may run to 10 servings, however truly embrace 20-30 tiny dishes. Alexandre was born within the Congo, and incorporates stunning world elements in his delicacies – tapioca from Africa, kumbawa fruits, satay and sake from Asia – but additionally the fantastic fish and seafood we’ve within the Mediterranean.
Pizza at La Bonne Mère

Pizzeria La Bonne Mère
We’ve been enthusiastic about pizza right here ever because the 1950s, when the city corridor authorised pizza vans with wood-fired ovens – early road meals. There’s a pizzeria on each road nook, together with legendary addresses similar to Chez Etienne and Chez Sauveur, identified for the basic skinny, crispy tomate, anchois, olive. However I’ve just lately found La Bonne Mère, a tiny place behind Notre-Dame de la Charité. Younger homeowners Jeremy and Mahéva are purists, serving a small however tasty choice (from €12). Pizzas made with natural flour and juicy buffalo mozzarella are cooked in a wood-fired oven. I like their speciality Bonne Mère with additional anchovies. Reserving important.
Meals buying

Greengrocer close to the Marche des Capucins. {Photograph}: Atlantide Phototravel/Getty Photos
Le Marché des Capucins, in a maze of slender streets, is the foodie coronary heart of Marseille. Vacationers will discover contemporary, low cost fruit, greens and picnic provides. I’ve all the time discovered inspiration from its unique meals shops, similar to Saladin, whose spice emporium is as nicely stocked as Marrakech’s souk. Up the road, take a look at Maison Empereur, a labyrinth courting from 1827, with each kitchen gadget below the solar. For lunch, attempt a €6 plate of grilled sardines, Algerian salads and chorba soup on the street-corner Comptoir des Beaux Arts, or be part of a extra stylish crowd at L’Epicerie l’Preferrred, a brand new cafe-deli just lately opened by Julia Sammut, from France’s influential Le Fooding information.
Swim in a calanque

Calanque de Sugiton. {Photograph}: Alamy
It doesn’t take lengthy to get out of our metropolis to the calanques, wild, gorge-like creeks alongside the coast so far as Cassis. The closest calanques, Sormiou and Callelongue, are half an hour away, with quiet seashores and nature trails. However I might advocate the much less accessible however spectacular Calanque de Sugiton. Take bus 21 to Marseille College’s Luminy campus for a dramatic and strenuous trek of over an hour. Even higher, take a ship tour that visits a number of calanques earlier than dropping anchor in Sugiton for a swim within the turquoise waters.• Half-day journeys depart from the Vieux-Port (€32pp),
Patisserie and picnic

Pâtisserie Bricoleurs de Douceurs
Clément Higgins is a gifted younger baker who just lately opened Pâtisserie Bricoleurs de Douceurs, a contemporary bakery-boutique in an outdated storage south of the town. Don’t anticipate baguettes and sandwiches – Clément concentrates on candy stuff, producing simply seven enjoyable, ingenious pastries, tarts and gateaux every day, impressed by native seasonal fruits, with no colourants or preservatives. Don’t miss his praline Marseille-Brest, a recent tackle the basic Paris-Brest choux creation, and the succulent Peach Me I’m Well-known. There’s a small salon de thé, however a greater plan, after shopping for a collection of pastries (€5 every), is to stroll all the way down to the seafront, with its quite a few steps main down to large rocks and tiny seashores … good for a picnic.
Funky meals kiosk

Fanny opened her eponymous snack bar within the historic Panier neighbourhood when she was 21. All the pieces is ready contemporary every morning, although she admits to being hopeless with recipes: “I can’t do the identical dish two days working, because it all the time comes out totally different.” So in the future she would possibly prepare dinner a standard beef daube, the subsequent a vegetarian tagine, then pasta with clams. She dubs the kiosk sandwicherie d’autrefois (old-style), so whereas burgers might be on the menu – you may’t ignore what everybody desires to eat – she makes them her personal approach, with, say, natural goat’s cheese or do-it-yourself tapenade. The plat du jour is €6, both on the counter or in a cardboard container.

Based in 1815 L’Herboristerie du Père Blaize is a medicinal herbalist, and is an establishment, stocking over 1,000 dried herbs, vegetation, important oils and spices. After I was rising up, my schoolmates and I might get dragged to this unusual, fragrant apothecary by our grandmothers, who got here right here for magic potions to remedy each ailment below the solar. Ten years in the past, I noticed that folks have been ingesting much less alcohol, so I collaborated with Père Blaize to create a variety of “Herbes de Vifs” – a contemporary cocktail of infusions that may be drunk sizzling or chilled, neat, or blended with fruit or vegetable extracts.
And some months in the past, the Herboristerie itself opened its personal Tisanerie, the place you may select and style your individual detox concoctions, below the steering of Vincent Eliot, who was my barman.
Arts hub

{Photograph}: Alamy
Friche la Belle de Mai has been round a very long time now, however it nonetheless dominates Marseille’s various arts and tradition scene. Situated in one of many metropolis’s poorest neighbourhoods, simply behind Saint-Charles practice station, this friche, an city regeneration undertaking, sprawls over what was as soon as an unlimited cigarette manufacturing facility producing France’s emblematic Gitanes and Gauloises cigarettes. You could find avant-garde artwork exhibitions right here, a Saturday morning farmers’ market, free outside cinema screenings, an enormous skateboard park and graffiti artists, and every little thing from jazz to techno concert events. In summer season, the entire of the rooftop is opened up for performances, picnics and events.
They’ve a wonderful canteen, Les Grandes Tables, which hosts memorable one-off occasions – similar to after we organised the primary Le Fooding extravaganza in Marseille, bringing collectively revolutionary cooks and regional farm producers.
The perfect bars

Bar La Relève
The Endoume is probably the most fascinating quarter in Marseille proper now, throwing off its outdated, sleazy repute courting again to the times of The French Connection film. Though it has turn into one of many metropolis’s trendiest addresses, there may be nonetheless an actual neighbourhood ambiance, typified by the rebirth of the historic La Relève bar.
I keep in mind when this was an actual dive. Now there are craft beers and a collection of natural and pure wines. The place involves life for early-evening apéro, packed out from 7pm with a enjoyable, younger crowd from all around the metropolis. Nonetheless, I might additionally nonetheless say that no customer to Marseille ought to miss the cafe terraces of Place de Lenche within the Panier quarter, the place Le Barjac serves mojitos and caipirinhas for €5, whereas a beneficiant shot of Ricard continues to be solely €2, with no additional cost for sitting exterior.
Cantini museum
Marseille now has a superb collection of world-class museums, from the avant-garde Mucem toLa Vieille Charité, housed in a former 17th-century almshouse However that is the brand new, trendy Marseille; after I was rising up, just about the one museum children have been taken to was Cantini, proper within the metropolis centre. It impressed me enormously on the time: an immense mansion initially constructed because the headquarters of an African buying and selling firm, with a exceptional assortment of 20th-century artwork, together with works by Max Ernst and Miró, Picasso, Matisse, Balthus and Francis Bacon. Now I counsel buddies go to it as someplace below the radar, away from the crowds, the place you may stand in entrance of a canvas with out being surrounded by a scrum of individuals.
Gérald Passedat, chef at Le Petit Good, was interviewed by John Brunton
Getting thereEasyJet and Ryanair fly to Marseille from a number of UK airports; Eurostar practice journey through Paris prices from £68 one-way. The place to stayTwo fashionable however inexpensive B&Bs close to the practice station are Casa Ortega (doubles from €90 B&B) and Pension Edelweiss (doubles from €85 B&B).
What’s onThe conventional Foire aux Santons (santons are the terrracotta collectible figurines utilized in Provençal crib scenes) runs from 18 Nov-31 December at Marseille’s Vieux Port.



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